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Morsels, my dudes. Morsels.
Ingredienti*—an encyclopedic guide from the doyenne of Italian cooking Marcella Hazan as well as her husband Victor—is organized alphabetically by ingredient. Celery, Chicory, Cucumbers. This impassive constraint withstanding, Ingredienti is the most pleasurable little book in the world to pick up for two or three minutes at a time & consider one particular ingredient in all its forms. Each page is a specific, obsessive bite.
Marcella Hazan’s guide to the market isn’t just instructive for how to shop, though it is certainly that. At its core, it counsels on having a strong sense of taste. Hazan is picky and judicious. She will hurt your feelings if you like balsamic vinegar on salads. In this, it’s not really her rules for cuisine that resonate: it’s the exaltation of taste, both as a discernment and appreciation.
Marcella passed away while writing Ingredienti in 2013. In the introduction, her husband says she knew this would be her last book. A teacher from the start, Marcella was determined to pass along her wisdom. She’s, above all, so caring to her ingredients. Her defense of leeks is some of the most impassioned writing I’ve ever read. Page 84 nearly convinced me that I like potatoes, which I know I do not! Do you need to be sold on the concept of charming but fragile marjoram? Let her go forth.
I hope I remember all her instructions, like the order of operation for saucing a pasta (not intuitive, but highly sensible) or buying an eggplant (the brighter the little green cap, the fresher the vegetable). I will probably forget almost all of them. But more than the specific slices of wisdom about each ingredient, what’s emblazoned is the affection for them all.
P.S. Boundless thanks to Dayna Evans, perfect writer & baker at Philadelphia’s smallest & best place for breads Downtime Bakery, who first recommended Ingredienti to me & is the very most fun to have snacks with.
P.P.S. Do you have a Purse Book to recommend? Do you have a purse that requires a Purse Book? Send your recs & dimensions over to pursebookletter@gmail.com.